Category: Models

Marc Jacobs fall 2020 Photo: Corey Tenold

“This is an unprecedented Fashion Week. In the history of New York Fashion Week there has never been one like it,” declared Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s CEO, on a Zoom call. Indeed, in February there were 177 labels on Vogue Runway’s NYFW review calendar. The schedule the CFDA released today, which begins with Jason Wu at 5 p.m. on Sunday, September 13, and ends with Tom Ford at 7 p.m. on Wednesday, September 16, includes just 60. With only a handful of IRL exceptions, all of the presentations on the CFDA’s official lineup will be digital.

Michael Kors Collection fall 2020
Michael Kors Collection, fall 2020 Photo: Filippo Fior / 

Proenza Schouler fall 2020
Proenza Schouler, fall 2020 Photo: Filippo Fior / 

Brandon Maxwell fall 2020
Brandon Maxwell, fall 2020 Photo: Filippo Fior / 

Among those not on the calendar: Michael Kors, who has announced an October date, Tory BurchProenza SchoulerBrandon Maxwell, and Prabal Gurung. In an email Gurung explained his thinking: “Since the pandemic forced us into lockdown, I’ve been talking to designers, retailers, suppliers, and factories all over the world. Everyone in the industry was running around playing catch up, with no actual goal in sight…. Whatever we put out there has to have a reason for its existence; pretty clothes are no longer enough. We need to really think about purpose and a mission.” He’s one of the designers looking at a later date in order to bring his presentation “closer to the time that shoppers will want to wear the pieces” he’s showing.

Familiar names that are returning to the CFDA calendar include MarchesaCarolina HerreraZero + Maria Cornejo, and Anna SuiEckhaus Latta slipped into the time slot left open by Marc Jacobs’s absence. In addition, there’s a menswear showcase and a time slot for Harlem’s Fashion Row and the BIPOC designers its founder Brandice Daniel is supporting. The biggest surprise: Imitation of Christ, whose last NYFW appearance came in spring 2013. Rather ironically, given where we are now, IOC’s designer Tara Subkoff dubbed that collection “This Is Not a Fashion Show.”

Imitation of Christ fall 2020 couture
Imitation of Christ, fall 2020 couture Photo: Courtesy of Imitation of Christ

At this point, Kolb and his colleagues know little about the type of digital content that will be living on the CFDA’s site, Runway360. “We connected people to content creators when they asked for intros,” he explained. “But at the end of the day the success of this for us isn’t who made an Academy Award winning film or who did the most innovative photo shoot. The barometer of success for us is: Were you able to see the clothes, able to write about them intelligently, and able to understand what is marketable to sell to your customers?”

A key difference between the CFDA and its Runway360 site and IMG and its site: The former is B2B and the latter is more B2C, with a schedule of livestreamed talks and IRL experiences that could include, say, an in-season shopping activation for a fall 2020 collection. That’s another difference: While Runway360 is a strictly digital platform, IMG has come up with a hybrid model, mixing in-person events with virtual ones made on the premises in its content hub. Jason Wu’s week-opening show at Spring Studios will take place on a runway with real models and a live audience. Earlier this week Governor Andrew Cuomo gave fashion shows his blessing; in a statement he said: “When COVID-19 hit New York, so many of our cherished events were forced to cancel or be postponed. The pandemic is far from over, but we’re proud to support IMG in moving forward with NYFW, in adherence with strict state public health guidance.”

Those precautions notwithstanding, the vast majority of the Fashion Week goings-on will be digital. On the CFDA’s calendar, designers and brands are scheduled on the half hour. In the end that may be the greatest virtue of a virtual Fashion Week. No traffic jams, no model delays, no waiting around endlessly for the front row to fill up. All efficiency. Just log on and click play. Of course, there are sure to be more off-calendar events and even more social media goings-on. Big picture, the pandemic has done to Fashion Week what it’s done to everything from office work to our social lives; it’s untethered it from place. The official calendars aside, the internet is a wide open space. Who knows who will chime in on the Fashion Week conversation? Or what they’ll have to say? That’s exciting.




We’ll be updating as they’re rolled out.
Vogue Uk Sept 2020 cover

Photo: Courtesy of Condé Nast/Misan Harriman

It’s that time of year again, everyone: September issue season is upon us, and magazines are bringing their A-game with statement-making covers and editorials. Some of the issues even weigh more than a pound (sorry, USPS) and exceed hundreds of pages.

We’re rounding up the fall fashion covers as they become public, so be sure to check back as we update this post with the new releases.


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The verdict is in: digital fashion shows are a flop, at least on social media. Of more than a dozen major #luxury brands that released content tied to men’s fashion week in Milan and Paris, or to their resort collections, none came close to making the same splash on Instagram as the corresponding shows did last year, according to tracking firm Tribe Dynamics. On average, digital shows, videos and presentations generated less than one-third as much online engagement. Few expected the industry to immediately hit on the right formula for online shows, a marketing experiment forced on the industry when the pandemic put an end to public gatherings. Whether a brand opted for an adapted-for-digital runway format, a collection film, or some other unconventional format, the online engagement was relatively muted compared to the same period the year prior. The lacklustre response is likely to strengthen the push to resume live shows before an audience in September and beyond. It also raises questions about the purpose of these shows. ⁠ ⁠ It seems that brands wrestled with whether to create digital presentations that catered to the industry — namely press and buyers who might want an up-close, detailed look at a collection that they might get on a re-see appointment — or those that catered to consumers and prioritised going viral online. In both cases, online #fashion obsessives failed to drive engagement higher, whether due to the lack of industry-wide cohesion, fewer #influencer partnerships, or relatively diminished interest in something like fashion amid a global pandemic and recession. Casting Director James Scully believes the majority of the #digital shows failed to innovate despite the #creative and logistical constraints. “We cannot go back to the business as it existed before including fashion shows, because they were already bloated and boring,” he said. “People trying to go back to that feels tone-deaf and not modern, and what impressed me the most were the people that actually took the time during [Covid-19] to sit and think about where we are now, what we can do.” [Link in bio]

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Will the Oscars Crush New York Fashion Week?

A scheduling conflict for the fashion ages.

Jason Wu, with this models, after his spring 2020 runway show in September.
Jason Wu, with this models, after his spring 2020 runway show in September.
Credit: Vincent Tullo for The New York Times

By Jessica Testa

As New York Fashion Week approached, so too did the insider drama of the show calendar. Which designers are skipping this season? Who is switching cities at the last minute? Who is left?

One conflict on the schedule stands apart: The 92nd Academy Awards, one of the most high-profile fashion events of the year, are on Sunday, right in the middle of fashion week.

The overlap is an anomaly; the awards show is scheduled two weeks earlier than usual in 2020 and will revert to late February next year. But it means that this year, many red carpet designers are pulling double duty, and that front-row seats reserved for A-list clients at the runway shows may be harder to fill.

It’s another complication in an already complicated season for the Council of Fashion Designers of America, which manages the New York Fashion Week calendar.

In an email, Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the CFDA, said that when his organization learned of the conflict, it “took initiative to have an open dialogue with designers” about their time slots, “in order to best support them.” He said the global spotlight of the Oscars red carpet “complements NYFW.”

For the red carpet designers who have decided to show in New York, preparing for both events simultaneously has been “a juggling act,” said Mark Badgley, of the label Badgley Mischka. “A roller coaster,” James Mischka said.

The two designers have been zipping nominees into elegant beaded gowns for more than 20 years. They spoke to The New York Times on a hectic morning eight days before their runway show and nine days before the awards. Several models were due soon for fittings.

“You’re looking at your sewing machines and weighing out, ‘Does that machine go to an Oscar dress, or does it do a runway sample?’” Mr. Badgley said.

At that moment, they were working on two gowns for the Academy Awards. That’s nothing compared with the 30 to 50 looks they present on a runway during any given season. Still, these two red carpet gowns — if they survive the last-minute celebrity mind changing and actually make it to the Oscars — could attract more attention from the general public than a fashion show.

Yet shows still matter to many designers. In an email, Brandon Maxwell, who dressed Lady Gaga, Melissa McCarthy and Sarah Paulson at the 2019 Oscars, said that “from a business and brand perspective NYFW is the priority, so we are focusing our efforts and resources there.” His show is scheduled the night before the awards.

At one point, the best way for designers to draw attention to a runway show was to put celebrities in their front row. This, too, has become difficult with the overlapping calendar, especially for labels whose shows are scheduled closest to the Oscars.

(The Badgley Mischka, show will end more than 24 hours before red carpet coverage begins, so the designers have it easier than others. Still, it is not ideal; because of the show’s proximity to the awards, its 2020 invite list focuses more on New York-based V.I.P.s than in years past.)

“I would be very concerned if I was one of those designers,” said Jessica Morgan of the celebrity fashion blog Go Fug Yourself, referring to the shows scheduled during the Oscars coverage. Ms. Morgan spent about a decade covering fashion week for New York magazine and Cosmopolitan. Awards season is her website’s biggest traffic period of the year.

“For one thing, you’re not going to have any celebrities there — maybe a few, but not anyone big,” she said. “And no big stylists are going to be able to attend their show because they’re going to be putting clients in Oscar or Vanity Fair Oscar party outfits.”

One designer scheduled for Sunday evening is Jason Wu, a celebrity favorite. (Mr. Wu declined to comment for this article.) Otherwise, the CFDA appears to have worked around fashion week’s big names. Prabal Gurung has shown on Sunday evening for the last four seasons; this year, he has been moved to Tuesday evening.

Others showing Sunday night include the street wear label Palm Angels; the futuristic swimwear-and-more label Chromat; and Kim Shui, who has dressed Kylie Jenner and Cardi B. Those designers may not be as disappointed as one might expect. Ms. Shui doesn’t care that her show is scheduled for 8 p.m., when the Oscars ceremony begins. The audiences are “different,” she said.

“We do have some front-row guests who might not be able to make it on the same day, but for us that’s not important,” said Ms. Shui, whose front row in the past has included Kehlani and Azealia Banks. “The people that would be coming to our show would be coming to our show anyway.”

Last season was more of a problem, she said, when her show was scheduled at the same time as the monster Savage x Fenty show. Diverse models Ms. Shui likes to cast were already booked by Rihanna, the Fenty designer.

A few years ago Badgley Mischka was scheduled at the same time as the Super Bowl, a considerably less fashion-centric event than the Oscars but nevertheless one that some of the designers’ guests — namely the presidents of retail companies — didn’t want to miss. So they put on their runway show at halftime and turned the game on backstage.

From Ariana Grande’s stunning Givenchy shoot to another splendid #HarryforGucci moment, here are the most memorable fashion visuals released this year.



Steven Klein goes on a US road trip for new Ray-Ban campaign

The photographer captured four models out on the open road

After shooting the 2017 campaign story for iconic eyewear brand Ray-Ban, famed photographer Steven Klein continues the story with the 2018 campaign, which stars four characters on a liberating road trip.

Each shot shows a different wearing a pair of glasses corresponding to their singular personality, as they set out on a journey of self-discovery. “It’s the idea of believing in tomorrow and a bright future, and the idea of everybody’s personal freedom,” explained Klein as he discussed the inspiration behind the two-part campaign. “The last campaign was about people leaving a life behind, and now they are on their way.”

Featuring models like Soo Joo Park and Alice Metza, each of the four faces has a different characteristic to match with their own style of sunglasses. One plays a musician, another a female film director, and there’s also a social activist and a poet and writer – with each of them discovering themselves on the way.

Alongside the images, Klein shot a video campaign as well, revealing more about the heroes’ personal journey and how they each find their freedom. “It’s the opposite of being imprisoned, which is having limitations imposed,” Klein said. “Freedom defines one’s individuality.”