L’Officiel: When Pharrell Williams was appointed Creative Director of Louis Vuitton’s Menswear — the first to succeed the late Virgil Abloh — the fashion world was split. Williams is no stranger to fashion, co-founding Billionaire Boys Club in 2003, and collaborating with luxury labels such as Moncler and Chanel. However, Abloh completely transformed Louis Vuitton, leaving a lasting legacy that’s hard to top for even the best in the industry. Now, kicking off Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Williams presents the Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, effectively showcasing his vision for the brand.

Set on the Pont Neuf Bridge (chosen because of its embodiment as a symbolic bridge between Paris and the Maison), the show in its essence was all about being in the moment. From the first few opening looks, it was clear that Williams was not trying to reinvent the brand, but rather reinterpret Louis Vuitton in a genuine manner.

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In his vision, there was a greater focus on fabrication, utilizing the Maison’s signature Epi leather in numerous looks — a fabric that is typically used to craft bags and accessories. Williams’ also found use in the iconic Damier check, incorporating the motif in multiple forms such as its merge with camouflage. One of the most recognizable was the pixelated Damier checks, an iteration that was brought back after being used in 2018.

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It was a celebratory show, as attendees watched the collection to the harmonious sounds of a live orchestra (a direct connection to Williams’ love for music). As the show went on, the music became livelier as a live gospel choir took center stage, a subtle nod to the embracing of Black culture — an initiative that Abloh was continuously privy to. Unlike the greater “quiet luxury” trend that has overtaken fashion, even during this current Men’s Fashion Week, the show was unapologetically forthright. It featured endless logos and bold colors, with a couple of looks presenting large graphics that read “The Louis Vuitton Lovers Present” across the front.

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A new direction was ushered in, sure, but unlike what most likely believed, Williams stayed true to the Louis Vuitton spirit — while also being true to himself.